Counterintuitively, one of the ways that designers are undermining the idea of an algorithmically flattened culture is through garments that embrace the idea of flatness physically through construction, splicing (see Undercover), or suspension (see Balenciaga and Victoria Beckham). In doing so they continue in the tradition of Martin Margiela, who once told Vogue: “When I recut clothes, old or new, it’s to transform them, not destroy them.” This idea of building up from and expanding on what exists is one that fashion needs to embrace.
Corporate Values
Thought neckties were a thing of the past? Think again. Designers played with symbols of corporate power, ties among them, as a commentary on late-stage capitalism and the dismantling of symbols of power in a now lost world of work.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli Schiaparelli
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Dilara Findikoglu
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Giorgio Armani menswear
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Lutz Huelle
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Loewe menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ottolinger
photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Sergio Hudson
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ami menswear
Peter Sutherland / Courtesy of 6397 6397
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Vaquera
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Todd Snyder menswear
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com House of Aama
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Institut Français de la Mode
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com The Garment
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Kenzo
Courtesy of Kallmeyer Kallmeyer
Photo: Courtesy of Adeam Adeam
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Max Mara
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com LaQuan Smith
Courtesy of Tibi Tibi
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Central Saint Martins
Courtesy of Hodakova Hodakova
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Mfpen
Courtesy of Hed Mayner Hed Mayner menswear
Courtesy of Nehera Nehera
Photo: Louis Flashman / Courtesy of Our Legacy Our Legacy
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Ludovic de Saint Sernin menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Paul Smith menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Wooyoungmi menswear
Courtesy of Khoki Khoki
Photo: Kira Bunse / Courtesy of Random Identities Random Identities menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Steve O Smith Steve O Smith
Photo: Eric Robert /Sygma via Getty Images Christian Bale as Patrick Bateman in American Psycho
Flyte Patterns
Country-house weekends—but not of the Saltburn variety—are trending. Tweeds, herringbones, and argyles conjure Brideshead Revisited’s Sebastian Flyte, Jeeves and Wooster, the Mitford sisters, and the relaxed royal style of Balmoral.
Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Chloé
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Tommy Hilfiger
Photo: Courtesy of Lemaire Lemaire
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Burberry
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Fendi
Courtesy of Nicholas Daley Nicholas Daley menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Loro Piana Loro Piana
Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell Brandon Maxwell
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com GmbH
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Anna Sui
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Libertine
Courtesy of Nili Lotan Nili Lotan
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Moschino
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com JW Anderson
Martina Keenan / Courtesy of Tanya Taylor Tanya Taylor
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Ferragamo
Photo: Julius Hayes / Courtesy of Lazoschmidl Lazoschmidl
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Courtesy of Auralee Auralee
Photo: Courtesy of Magliano Magliano menswear
Courtesy of Coperni Coperni
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Wales Bonner
Courtesy of R13 R13
Photo: Nikolai Moeller / Courtesy of Caro Editions Caro Editions
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Fendi menswear
Ola Rindal / Courtesy of Margaret Howell Margaret Howell
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Cecilie Bahnsen
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tod’s
Photo: Courtesy of Stefan Cooke Stefan Cooke
Photo: Ola Rindal / Courtesy of Petar Petrov Petar Petrov
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Rabanne
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Derrick menswear
Photo: Ellen Fedors / Courtesy of Ganni Ganni
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com JW Anderson menswear
Photo: TV Times / Getty Images Anthony Andrews Sebastian Flyte in Brideshead Revisited
Neck-Up Fashion
Extravagant collars will be to 2024 what big sleeves were to 2023. Backward button-downs are also making the rounds.
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Chanel
Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Carven
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Rokh
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Alainpaul
Courtesy of Denzil Patrick Denzil Patrick
Courtesy of Judy Turner Judy Turner
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Giambattista Valli
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Batsheva
Courtesy of Toga Toga
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Emporio Armani
Photo: Su Mustecaplioglu / Courtesy of Altuzarra Altuzarra
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Eudon Choi
Courtesy of Proenza Schouler Proenza Schouler
Photo: Courtesy of Fear of God Fear of God
Courtesy of Rachel Comey Rachel Comey
Courtesy of Bianca Saunders Bianca Saunders
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Acne Studios
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Prada
Courtesy of Supriya Lele Supriya Lele
Photo: Courtesy of Attachment Attachment
Courtesy of Courrèges Courrèges
Outward-Bound
Did Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton so-called damoflage spark a trend? Designers are connecting to nature with expressionistic takes on the traditional camouflage pattern. Just don’t expect to hide in plain sight in these head turners.
Courtesy of Marni Marni
photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Institut Français de la Mode
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Louis Vuitton menswear
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Knwls
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Mame Kurogouchi
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Roberto Cavalli
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Hermès menswear
Courtesy of Undercover Undercover menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Monse
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gucci
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Institut Français de la Mode
Photo: Courtesy of Lafayette 148 Lafayette 148
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Chet Lo
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Kamiya
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Paolo Carzana
Courtesy: SOSSKYN By Samara Scott Studio Fashion East: Sosskyn by Samara Scott Studio
Photo: Jamie Morgan / Courtesy of Martine Rose Martine Rose
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Fashion East: Olly Shinder
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Henrik Vibskov
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Antonio Marras
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Feng Chen Wang
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Noir Kei Ninomiya
Flat Out
Apple’s Vision Pro may be making spatial computing a reality, but fashion is embracing the two-dimensionality of flatness with spliced garments, the use of wire, and paper-doll-like tabs. The effect is to create a space between the body and the garment that is unexpected and exciting to the eye.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Undercover
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Victoria Beckham
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Balmain menswear
Courtesy of Ashlyn Ashlyn
Photo: Tom Funk / Courtesy of Richert Beil Richert Beil
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Kolor
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Pronounce
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Sacai
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Balenciaga
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Junya Watanabe menswear
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Prada
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Louis Vuitton
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Gauchere
Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row
Photo: Courtesy of Colin Leaman Zane Li
Cecile Bortoletti / Courtesy of Co Co
Courtesy of Melitta Baumeister Melitta Baumeister
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Junya Watanabe
Courtesy of Matty Bovan Matty Bovan
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Feben
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Yohji Yamamoto
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Walter Van Beirendonck
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Tanaka
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Burc Akyol
Piled High
Come fall you’re going to go wild for voluminous, pettable outerwear made of faux fur, feathers, fabric, shearling, or yarn.
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Erdem
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Michael Kors Collection
Photo: Courtesy of Alaïa Alaïa
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni - Gorunway.com / Courtesy of Givenchy Givenchy
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Balmain
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ferrari
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Prabal Gurung
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Christian Siriano
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Richard Quinn
Courtesy of Self-Portrait Self-Portrait
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Elie Saab
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Simone Rocha
Courtesy of Chopova Lowena Chopova Lowena
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Miu Miu
Photo: Justin Leveritt / Courtesy of CDLM CDLM
Courtesy of Helmut Lang Helmut Lang
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Giorgio Armani
Photo: Courtesy of Plan C Plan C
Courtesy of Moncler Grenoble Moncler Grenoble
Henrik Blomqvist / Courtesy of Colville Colville
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Diesel
Courtesy of Norma Kamali Norma Kamali
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bottega Veneta
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Louis Vuitton
Photo: Jori Komulainen / Courtesy of Lu'u Dan Lu’u Dan
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ann Demeulemeester
photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Marine Serre
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tom Ford
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Zimmermann
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst Gabriela Hearst
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Saks Potts
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Roksanda
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Isabel Marant
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Hermès
Courtesy of By Malene Birger By Malene Birger
Courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim 3.1 Phillip Lim
Courtesy of Atlein Atlein
Courtesy of Aaron Esh Aaron Esh
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Puppets and Puppets
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli Brunello Cucinelli
Courtesy of Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com David Koma
Dudi Hasson / Courtesy of Nanushka Nanushka
Leonard Burt/Getty Images Boho life: Brian Jones, 1967
Photo: Fred R. Conrad / Getty Images Ladylike: Judith Jamison, 1981
Off-Piste
Snuggly and stylish, ski sweaters go from the slope to the street.
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Duran Lantink
Courtesy of Adam Lippes Adam Lippes
Photo: Courtesy of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Bed j.w. Ford
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sacai menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Officine Générale
Photo: Alice Neale / Courtesy of Tiger of Sweden Tiger of Sweden
Photo: Courtesy of Children of the Discordance Children of the Discordance
Photo: Courtesy of Veronica Beard Veronica Beard
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com No. 21
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Skall Studio
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Bora Aksu
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Emilia Wickstead
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bally
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Paolina Russo
Courtesy of Rag & Bone Rag & Bone
Courtesy of Shinyakozuka Shinyakozuka
Photo: Courtesy of Bode Bode
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com White Mountaineering
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ulla Johnson
Photo: Hazel Gaskin / Courtesy of Ashish Ashish
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Rolf Ekroth
Go Wide
Anchoring the silhouette in a tactile season is the bold shoulder, which often borrows something from the shape Claude Montana pioneered in the bigger-is-better ’80s. Straight, sloped, or rounded, big shoulders command space and convey authority.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Stella McCartney
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Edward Crutchley
Photo: Boris Marberg / Courtesy of Namilia Namilia
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Central Saint Martins
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Mugler
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Etro
Courtesy of Armarium Armarium
Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com MSGM
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sportmax
Alessandro Garofalo / Courtesy of Meryll Rogge Meryll Rogge
Photo: Hanna Tveite / Courtesy of Khaite Khaite
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Saint Laurent
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Luar
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Natasha Zinko
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Off-White
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Collina Strada
Courtesy of Peter Do Peter Do
Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Marie Adam-Leenaerdt
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Bluemarble
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Ester Manas
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Fforme
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Vetements
Courtesy of Jonathan Cohen Jonathan Cohen
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Carolina Herrera
Made for Magpie
A little sparkle can go a long way, and in a season of softness, glittery tinsel really stands out.
Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Dries Van Noten
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Tory Burch
Courtesy of Valentino Valentino
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Undercover
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com 16Arlington
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Comme des Garçons
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gucci menswear
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Maison Mihara Yasuhiro menswear
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Bach Mai
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Zomer
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Nicklas Skovgaard
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com LaPointe
Photo: Courtesy of Hervé Léger Hervé Léger
Photo: Courtesy of Lela Rose Lela Rose
Courtesy of Palmer Harding Palmer Harding
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Wiederhoeft
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Alberta Ferretti
Diedre Lewis / Courtesy of Diotima Diotima
Smoking Allowed
Suiting up is the new dressing up for evening. The spirits of Marlene Dietrich and Yves Saint Laurent live on in all of the season’s Le Smokings.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Thom Browne
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Dolce & Gabbana
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Versace
Courtesy of Valentino Valentino
Photo: Hanna Tveite / Courtesy of Khaite Khaite
Courtesy of Nina Ricci Nina Ricci
Zach Earhart / Courtesy of Who Decides War Who Decides War
Photo: Courtesy of Temperley London Temperley London
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Willy Chavarria
Photo: Courtesy of 4SDesigns 4SDesigns
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Dries Van Noten menswear
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Del Core
Courtesy of GCDS GCDS
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com S.S. Daley
Photo: Courtesy of House of Dagmar House of Dagmar
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Dsquared2
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com MM6 Maison Margiela
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Ermanno Scervino
Photo: Courtesy of Brioni Brioni
Photo: Patrick Bienert/ Courtesy of Setchu Setchu
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Vivetta
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Loewe
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Rhude
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Coach
Photo: Paramount Pictures / Alamy Stock Photo Robert Redford in The Great Gatsby
Wrap Session
Duvet-inspired dressing brings that cozy, stay-in-bed-all-day feeling with you wherever you go.
Photo: Lonny Spence / Courtesy of John Alexander Skelton John Alexander Skelton
Courtesy of Caroline Hu Caroline Hu
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Issey Miyake
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Uma Wang
Photo: Courtesy of Fumito Ganryu Fumito Ganryu
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Stamm
Photo: James Cochrane / Courtesy of Olivia Ballard Olivia Ballard
Courtesy of Rochas Rochas
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Jason Wu Collection
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sunnei
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Susan Fang
Lawrence De Leon / Courtesy of Tanner Fletcher Tanner Fletcher
Photo: Courtesy of Rainmaker Rainmaker
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com / Courtesy of Casablanca Casablanca
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Christian Dior
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bevza
Zander Taketomo / Courtesy of Lauren Manoogian Lauren Manoogian
Courtesy of Stein Stein
Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Jil Sander
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Harunobumurata
Jimi Franklin / Courtesy of Zankov Zankov
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Tokyo James
Photo: Courtesy of Sea Sea
Cécile Bortoletti / Courtesy of Niccolò Pasqualetti Niccolò Pasqualetti
Courtesy of QUIRA Quira
Courtesy of Tove Tove
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Jawara Alleyne
Courtesy of Christopher Esber Christopher Esber
Arnaud Lajeunie / Courtesy of Y/Project Y/Project
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Mossi
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Missoni
Photo: Owenscorp / Courtesy of Rick Owens Rick Owens
Photo: © 2023 Fairweather & Fairweather LTD / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York. Courtesy of the John Chamberlain Estate John Chamberlain, Miss Lucy Pink, 1962
